A good deal of work happened during the fourth month so it divided up into separate
sections.
Just click on an area below
Finishes
Once framing, sheathing and
flashing are dealt with, the matter of finishes for the exterior must be
considered. Many types of siding and other exterior coverings are
applied over wood framing. Often a house may have more than one type of
siding on it. Numerous patterns of wood siding is available. The names
of different types, varying with the locality, include, bevel, bungalow,
colonial, rustic, shiplap and drop siding.
If bevel siding or square‑inch
boards are used, they should be applied horizontally and lapped 1 inch
with nails driven just above the lap to permit: possible movement
because of changes in moisture conditions. Moreover, the boards should
be spaced so that the bottoms of the pieces coincide with the top of the
trim over the door and window openings‑an arrangement requiring careful
planning by the carpenter before starting to apply the siding.
When using bevel siding or
square‑inch boards, it is a good practice to apply a liberal coating of
water repellent to the end surfaces. No matter what the siding or
exterior trim, it should be installed with corrosion resistant nails,
usually of galvanized steel or aluminum. Where wood sheathing is used,
siding may be nailed at 24‑inch intervals. Where other types of
sheathing are used, the nails should be driven through the sheathing
into the studs at each bearing. The length of the nails will vary with
thickness of the siding and the types of the sheathing.
Where shingles are installed in
double courses (double layers), the butt of the exposed shingle should
extend about 1/2‑inch below the under-course or layer to produce a
shadow line. The under-course should be a the sheathing with nails or
staples and the outer-course attached with s headed nails driven
approximately 2 inches above the butts and 3/4 of an inch from the
edges.
In all cases, however, shingles
should be nailed with corrosion‑resistant nails of sufficient length to
penetrate the sheathing, using two nails: shingles up to 8 inches wide
and three nails for wider shingles. shingles are installed in a single
course or layer, the nails should be approximately 1 inch above the butt
line of the following course.
Finally, when siding other than
wood sheathing is used, 1‑inch by 3‑inch horizontal nailing strips must
be applied over the sheathing spaced to correspond with the weather
exposure of the shingles.
Stucco stiff is popular in dry
climates where it can be applied the surface of a solid masonry wall.
The application of stucco
frame wall, however, generally
is more involved than the application of other finishes.
Thus, the high cost of labor for
its application has reduced its popularity in the northern parts of the
country.
When stucco, which is a type of
plaster that can be various pattermd. or colored, is used, its
application involves the following steps., First, when firing strips are
nailed to the sheathing through the building paper, metal lathing is
stretched onto the firing strips. Finally, the stucco troweled onto the
lathing.
A masonry veneer wall is really
a frame wall with some varariety of masonry siding, most commonly clay
bricks, concrete bricks, split blocks or stone. In houses with masonry
veneer walls, all of the structural functions of the walls are performed
by the framing and not by the one‑unit thickness masonry that is tied to
the frame wall with rustproof metal ties spaced one tie for each 2
square feet of wall.
When the walls are constructed,
3/4 inch to 1 inch of air space is left between the masonry and the
sheathing and weep holes are installed at the base to let moisture
escape.
A variety of other types of
siding materials are available. These incliude aluminum, stone,
hardboard, gypsum board, fiberglass and metals. Each of these requires
special techniques for proper installation. Instructions provided by the
manufacturers and should be followed carefully.
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